Caftan, takchita, jellaba, gandoura: what's the difference?

The names sound alike, the pieces get confused, and shops do not always help. Here is a simple glossary of Moroccan traditional dress, piece by piece.

The caftan

A long robe, one piece, pulled on over the head, with no hood. The caftan falls to the ankles, with long sleeves and an opening at the collar, often closed with aqad buttons along a sfifa braid. It is worn as it is, with or without a fine belt. Depending on the cloth and the embroidery, it ranges from a plain daytime caftan to a ceremony piece.

The takchita

Two pieces, not one. Underneath, a plain dress called tahtia or dfina. Over it, an ornate, sheer or openwork caftan called fouqia. The set is closed at the waist with a wide, re-embroidered mdamma belt. The takchita is the ceremony outfit par excellence: weddings, engagements, big celebrations. It is what the Moroccan bride wears.

The jellaba

A long piece with a pointed hood (the qob), with long sleeves and often two pockets on the front. The jellaba is worn over other clothes, outdoors, by women and men alike. Light in summer, wool in winter. It is an everyday garment, but a hand-embroidered jellaba can also be a fine outing outfit.

The gandoura

A long, loose piece, no hood, with short sleeves or none, worn mainly by men. Simpler than the jellaba, more casual. Cotton in summer, lamé cloth for daytime celebrations. It is the men’s equivalent of the daytime caftan.

The jabador

A two-piece men’s set: a standing-collar tunic and a matching saroual. Closer-fitting and dressier than the gandoura, with an embroidered placket. The outfit for weddings, Eid and evenings.

The farmla

A short, open jacket that stops at the hip, worn over a shirt or a gandoura. This is where men’s embroidery is concentrated — often the groom’s outfit on the henna night. There are farmlas for women too, worn over a saroual.

The selham (or burnous)

A large hooded wool cape, sleeveless, set over the shoulders. In white it carries ceremonial weight; in dark wool it keeps you warm. Worn by men, over a gandoura or a jabador.

The saroual

The traditional trouser: wide at the thigh, narrowed at the calf, high drawstring waist. It completes the jabador or the farmla and lets you sit cross-legged.

In short

Piece	Hood	One or two pieces	Use
Caftan	No	One	Day to ceremony
Takchita	No	Two + belt	Ceremony
Jellaba	Yes	One	Everyday, outings
Gandoura	No	One	Everyday (men), daytime celebration
Jabador	Sometimes	Two	Celebration, evening (men)
Farmla	No	Jacket	Ceremony, henna
Selham	Yes	Cape	Ceremony, winter

To choose a wedding piece from this vocabulary, read How to choose your wedding caftan in Marrakech. For the men’s wardrobe, see the men’s caftan guide. And to see these pieces in person, come to the Tazi Caftan shop.